21 July 2016

LeMan

The Turkish government has prevented the satirical magazine LeMan from printing and distributing its latest issue. After the publishers posted the cover for the new issue (no. 1281) online yesterday, the magazine was banned and police raided the printers.

The cover suggests that both the military and Turkish citizens were pawns manipulated by politicians during last week’s attempted coup. One unseen figure pushes timid-looking soldiers into action, while another (representing President Erdoğan) boasts that he wields the support of 50% of the population.

Last year, another Turkish magazine, Nokta, was banned for its anti-Erdoğan cover. Also, a 2014 Erdoğan caricature on the cover of Penguen magazine resulted in two cartoonists being fined.

19 July 2016

100 Ideas That Changed Advertising

100 Ideas That Changed Advertising
100 Ideas That Changed Advertising, by Richard Veksner, is part of Laurence King's 100 Ideas That Changed... series. Others include Photography, Film, Architecture, and Graphic Design. Every book in the series follows the same format: 100 chapters, each with a single-page essay and a full-page illustration.

The book includes chapters on aspects of the advertising industry, marketing concepts, and a wide range of advertising formats. Veksner isn't as authoritative as the other authors in the series, though his book is useful because there are few other general guides to advertising history. (Veksner strikes an appropriate balance between the industry-focused Adland, and the image-based A History Of Advertising and Game Changers: The Evolution Of Advertising.)

100 Ideas That Changed Graphic Design

100 Ideas That Changed Graphic Design
100 Ideas That Changed Graphic Design, by Steven Heller and Veronique Vienne, is part of Laurence King's 100 Ideas That Changed... series. Others include Photography, Film, Architecture, and Advertising. Every book in the series has the same format: 100 chapters, each with a single-page essay and a full-page illustration.

Heller and Vienne's 100 ideas are dominated by design elements (such as pointing fingers), and the selection seems rather arbitrary. There's surprisingly little material on digital design, though the book has extensive coverage of print media. Heller is one of the leading historians of graphic design, and his many previous books include Illustration: A Visual History.

100 Ideas That Changed Architecture

100 Ideas That Changed Architecture
100 Ideas That Changed Architecture, by Richard Weston, is part of Laurence King's 100 Ideas That Changed... series. Others include Photography, Film, Advertising, and Graphic Design.

Every book in the series follows the same format: 100 chapters, each with a single-page essay and a full-page illustration. What sets this book apart from others in the series is its excellent annotated bibliography.

Weston's 100 entries include architectural features (columns, arches, domes), building materials (brick, iron, steel, glass), and "more idea-like ideas" ('less is more', 'form follows function'). There are also essays on architectural styles, especially the major trends of the twentieth century, though the book's coverage is more technical than aesthetic.

13 July 2016

The Art Of Cutting

The Art Of Cutting
The Art Of Cutting For Paper, Cardboard, Wood & Other Materials: Tradition & New Techniques, by Jean-Charles Trebbi, was originally published in French as L'Art De La Decoupe: Design & Decoration. The book begins with a brief guide to the various traditional forms of paper cutting: 'canviet' (French), 'Scherenschnitte' (Swiss), 'jianzhi' (Chinese), 'kirigami' and 'katagami' (Japanese), 'wycinanki' (Polish), 'papel picado' (Mexican), and 'sanjih' (Indian).

The majority of the book consists of profiles of contemporary artists who create cut-out sculptures, furniture, and architecture, though some interesting historical examples are also included (such as a magazine from 1889 illustrating "Decoupage d'une orange"). Trebbi also discusses silhouettes, shadow puppets, and pop-up books. (These are covered more extensively in E Nevill Jackson's Silhouette: Notes & Dictionary, Emma Rutherford's Silhouette: The Art of the Shadow, Eileen Blumenthal's Puppetry: A World History, and Trebbi's The Art Of Pop-Up.)

12 July 2016

New Democracy Movement

New Democracy Movement
Three members of the New Democracy Movement were arrested on Sunday and accused of violating the Referendum Act. Article 61 of the Act states that "anyone who publishes text, images or sound... that is either untruthful, harsh, offensive, rude, inciting or threatening, with the intention that voters will either not exercise their right to vote, or vote in a certain way" will face up to ten years in jail.

The New Democracy Movement is an anti-coup organisation that has been campaigning against the military's proposed constitution. They have been treading a legal tightrope by distributing t-shirts calling for people to 'vote no' in the referendum to be held on 7th August.

The NDM members were arrested in Ratchaburi after police found copies of anti-charter booklets in their car. Election Commissioner Somchai Srisuthiyakorn has said that one of the NDM's booklets (a fold-out poster listing seven reasons to vote no) is in violation of the Act.

A journalist from Prachatai who was travelling with the NDM members was also arrested. They were all detained in custody on Sunday night, and granted bail yesterday. Police searched Prachatai's office today.

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Club Friday: To Be Continued

เพื่อนรักเพื่อนร้าย
GMM25, a digital terrestrial TV channel owned by GMM Grammy, has been fined ฿50,000 by the National Broadcasting & Telecommunications Commission after viewers complained about the violent content of its soap opera, Club Friday: To Be Continued (เพื่อนรักเพื่อนร้าย). The episode in question (the final episode in the fifteen-part series) was broadcast on 3rd May, and included a scene depicting the rape of a female character.

The rape sequence occurred at the beginning of the episode, which was broadcast at 8pm. The attacker was shown pinning the woman down, while three others filmed the assault on their smartphones. The scene, which did not include any nudity, mostly consisted of reaction shots of the man's accomplices.

The NBTC judged that the episode violated article 37 of the Broadcasting Act, which forbids the transmission of immoral or corrupting material. However, the small fine (equivalent to only $1,500) is merely tokenistic, as GMM Grammy is Thailand's largest media conglomerate.

Lakorn (soap operas) dominate the prime-time schedules of Thailand's terrestrial television channels. The most popular series are broadcast every night after the 8pm royal news bulletins on channels 3, 5, and 7. (Channels 5 and 7 are owned by the army, and soap operas about soldiers have been used as military propaganda; Thai television is dominated by soap operas, gameshows, and variety shows.)

Nicknamed 'nam nao' ('dirty water') for their worthless content, these soap operas are melodramatic to the point of absurdity, and often focus on a standard 'tob-joob' ('slap and kiss') plot: two women cat-fighting over the love of a 'hi-so' (upper class) man. Episodes can last for as long as two hours, and (like Brazilian 'telenovelas') a series typically runs for a few months.

Lakorn rely on inappropriate stereotypes, such as camp gay men as recurring characters. The primary motivations of the female characters are defeating their love rivals and marrying their rich boyfriends. Rape and domestic violence are increasingly common plot points, and the male perpetrators are often forgiven for these transgressions in the inevitable happy ending. (Similarly, sometimes even Thai comedies feature domestic abuse, with punches accompanied by comic sound effects.)

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09 July 2016

The Art Of Illustrated Maps

The Art Of Illustrated Maps
The Art Of Illustrated Maps: A Complete Guide To Creative Mapmaking's History, Process & Inspiration is "the first book ever to fully explore the world of conceptual, "imaginative" mapping." (Map, by Rosie Pickles and Tim Cooke, also includes examples of illustrated maps.) These creative maps are distinct from the scientific field of cartography: "a line was beginning to form between accurate maps and artistic maps."

The book is concerned with the second of these two branches: "Like geographic maps, the creation of illustrated maps also has a long history, spanning nearly two thousand years, and this subject matter also lacks significant published historical or analytical review. The Art of Illustrated Maps charts previously unexplored ground as it traces the birth and evolution of the highly specialized order of cartographic art known as illustrated maps."

Author John Roman quotes Ptolemy's definition of 'chorography' in his Geographia: "The chorographic map artist's concern is to draw or paint a "likeness" of the place, and not to concern himself with exact positions or sizes." He appropriates Ptolemy's term to refer to all forms of illustrated, artistic map-making, and charts its history alongside a portfolio of contemporary examples.

As Roman explains, "absolutely no books at all existed on the subject of maps until Lloyd Brown's The Story of Maps was published". Brown's book was indeed the first guide to cartographic history, and covers Ptolemy, the Middle Ages, and Renaissance map-making in more detail than Roman's brief account.

Leo Bagrow's History Of Cartography is the most comprehensive single-volume history of the subject, and Roman cites Bagrow's observation that, during the eighteenth century, cartographic maps "ceased to be works of art." Maps (like anatomical studies of the same period) became more technical and less artistic as scientific accuracy improved, though a parallel trend saw an increase in the creativity of illustrated maps. Roman's coverage of this development in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries is his most interesting and original material.

07 July 2016

100 Years Of Architectural Drawing

100 Years Of Architectural Drawing
Le Modulor
Vitruvian Man
100 Years Of Architectural Drawing 1900-2000, by Neil Bingham, is "a world survey of architectural drawings of the twentieth century." 300 drawings are included, all printed as full-page illustrations with extended captions.

Most of the key modern architects are represented; one of the highlights is an early version of Le Corbusier's anthropometric proportional design Le Modulor (1945), inspired by Leonardo's Vitruvian Man. Laurence King has published a series of 100 Years Of... books, including 100 Years Of Tattoos.

Building

Building
Building: 3,000 Years Of Design, Engineering, & Construction (published by Phaidon) is a definitive history of "building engineering," the umbrella term author Bill Addis uses to describe a combination of structural engineering and building design. The authoritative and comprehensive text is accompanied by hundreds of diagrams and other illustrations from historical sources.

The clarity of the explanation, organisation, and layout make the subject accessible without simplifying the technical details. Appendices include timelines of iron and concrete, and an excellent bibliographic essay ("further reading material on... construction materials and certain building types").

The Course Of Landscape Architecture

The Course Of Landscape Architecture
The Course Of Landscape Architecture: A History Of Our Designs On The Natural World, From Prehistory To The Present (published by Thames & Hudson) is a survey of more than 3,000 years of mankind's shaping of the natural landscape. Such an ambitious narrative can't be covered comprehensively in 300 pages, so the book alternates between general summaries of major themes and detailed case studies of specific sites.

Christophe Girot provides a fascinating overview of our attitudes to our environment over the centuries, linking them to major scientific discoveries and artistic innovations: "Landscape is the crucible of human actions and reactions towards nature, and landscapes are the product of a deep cultural revolution that occurred at the dawn of human settlement 9,000 years ago." He argues, therefore, that we must "achieve a more respectful relationship towards our world, by giving a greater place to nature in society."

The Thames & Hudson Dictionary
Of Fashion & Fashion Designers

The Thames & Hudson Dictionary Of Fashion & Fashion Designers
The Thames & Hudson Dictionary Of Fashion & Fashion Designers, by Georgina O'Hara Callan, was first published as The Encyclopaedia Of Fashion in 1986. Fifty new entries were added by Cat Glover in 2008. The Dictionary includes more than 1,000 entries covering designers, clothing, fabrics, and the media, followed by an extensive bibliography. Most entries are a paragraph or two in length, though a few run for more than a page, the longest being those for Coco Chanel and Charles Worth.

This is one of several authoritative Thames & Hudson dictionaries, including Photography, Art Terms, and Graphic Design & Designers. It's also part of their long-running World of Art series.

The three-volume Encyclopedia Of Clothing & Fashion (edited by Valerie Steele) is a more comprehensive reference, and The Fashion Book has larger illustrations, though the Dictionary was the first A-Z guide to fashion designers. It covers the same period as The History Of Modern Fashion (by Daniel James Cole and Nancy Deihl), from the mid-nineteenth century (the sewing machine and the House of Worth) onwards.

06 July 2016

The Encyclopedia Of Antique Carpets

The Encyclopedia Of Antique Carpets
The Ardebil Carpet
The Encyclopedia Of Antique Carpets: Twenty-Five Centuries Of Weaving is the most comprehensive reference book on the history of carpet and rug weaving. It was written by veteran carpet dealer Abraham Levi Moheban, edited by his son David Moheban, and published in two heavy volumes (A-K and L-Z) with an illustrated slipcase.

The Encyclopedia features 600 entries covering global carpet production, with 850 carpets illustrated in colour. These include arguably the most famous Persian carpet, the Ardebil Safavid carpet at the V&A; and the world's most expensive carpet, another Safavid example, which was auctioned for more than $33 million in 2013.

As the author writes in his preface, the Encyclopedia contains "a much larger corpus of sources and images than any other book previously published [on this subject]... There is no comparable book available and there is no prospect of another similar." The only potentially comparable work is Oriental Rugs, by Peter F Stone, though Stone's book has shorter, dictionary-style entries, and lower-resolution images. By contrast, the Encyclopedia is much more extensive (over 600 pages), and has higher-quality photographs.

Oriental Rugs & Carpets: A Comprehensive Study (by Arthur Urbane Dilley) was one of the first histories of oriental rugs in English. Oriental Rugs: A Comprehensive Guide (by Murray L Eiland) is an excellent modern history of the subject. (The second edition has additional coverage of Indian rugs, and better illustrations.) A History of Textile Art (by Agnes Geijer, illustrated in black and white) and 5,000 Years Of Textiles (a definitive study, edited by Jennifer Harris) are general historical surveys of textiles.

05 July 2016

3/๓๓

3/๓๓
La Dame A La Collerette
The exhibition 3/๓๓ opened at Ratchadamnoen Contemporary Art Center in Bangkok on 24th June, and runs until 17th July. Only three artworks are included, though they are all by major European modern artists: Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, and David Hockney.

A five-minute video is projected at the entrance to the exhibition, and viewing it is obligatory: an attendant asks us to watch the video, and "then I will take you to the masterpiece room." As we are escorted into the gallery, another attendant reminds us: "This is the masterpiece room. Please don't take photos".

What treasures await us inside? Unfortunately, the exhibition is an anticlimax. The three works are hardly masterpieces, and they are not even paintings. They are all prints: a Picasso linocut, and Renoir and Hockney lithographs. The Picasso print is La Dame A La Collerette, which was previously shown (without all this unjustified fanfare) at The Art Of Time in 2008.

04 July 2016

Tate Modern: The Handbook

Tate Modern: The Handbook
Tate Modern: The Handbook has been updated in a fourth edition to reflect this year's opening of the Tate's extension, Switch House. Tate Modern opened in 2000, and has since become one of the world's greatest museums of modern art. Positioned opposite St Paul's Cathedral in London, the Tate is a secular cathedral, and its vast Turbine Hall has inspired a series of enormous sculptures and installations.

The guidebook, edited by Matthew Gale, features a foreword by Tate director Nicholas Serota and an essay on the history of the Tate ("FROM SUGAR CUBE TO WHITE CUBE") by Frances Morris. Previous editions profiled 100 modern and contemporary artists, though this edition has been expanded to 300.

Each artist profile is illustrated by a work from the Tate's permanent collection, including Chris Ofili's The Upper Room (previously installed at the Victoria Miro Gallery, and purchased despite Ofili being a Tate trustee), Pablo Picasso's La Danse (described by John Richardson as "one of Picasso's most profound and mysterious paintings"), and Apichatpong Weerasethakul's video installation Primitive.

Independence Day: Resurgence (MX4D)

Independence Day: Resurgence
Independence Day: Resurgence
Independence Day: Resurgence, Roland Emmerich's sequel to Independence Day, is another of the director's SF/disaster movies, though it lacks the wow factor of the original film's White House destruction sequence. As Jeff Goldblum says in Resurgence: "They like to get the landmarks." (Goldblum's role is similar to his character in Jurassic Park, and an accountant played by Nicolas Wright is clearly modelled on the lawyer from that film.)

Resurgence is screening in Bangkok in the MX4D format, which is a similar technology to South Korea's 4DX. Like 4DX, MX4D features motion-controlled seats, flashing lights, water vapour, wind, smoke, etc. The main difference is that MX4D (which was developed in the United States) has an additional motorised effect that pokes the underside of the seats.

MX4D is currently only available in screen 10 at SF World. Like Cinerama, 3D, HFR, Dolby Atmos, and Aroma-Scope (and ScreenX at EmQuartier's CineArt, screen 2), it's a gimmick to lure audiences back to the cinema.

I Know Why The Rebel Sings

I Know Why The Rebel Sings
Fifteen photographs have been removed from Newsha Tavakolian's exhibition I Know Why The Rebel Sings in Singapore. The images were part of a portfolio of portraits of female soldiers from the Kurdish group YPJ, fighting against Islamic State.

The photographs had been published in Time magazine on 20th April 2015 and distributed in Singapore, though they were censored from the exhibition by the Media Development Authority. The exhibition opened on 22nd June, at TheatreWorks, and will close on 9th July.

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Peace TV

เข้าใจตรงกันนะ
Peace TV's licence has been suspended for thirty days by the National Broadcasting and Telecommunications Commission. The state media regulator accused the channel (operated by the red-shirt UDD movement) of transmitting content that undermined national security. The NBTC did not clarify the exact nature of the offending material, though its verdict was based on an episode of the เข้าใจตรงกันนะ programme broadcast on 21st March.

Peace TV's licence was revoked by the NBTC last year, though that decision was later overturned by the Administrative Court. At the same time, the station's production offices were raided when soldiers and police officers attempted to prevent it from interviewing former Prime Minister Chavalit Yongchaiyudh. (They were apparently unaware that the interview was a repeat rather than a live transmission.)

01 July 2016

เมื่อครั้งเสด็จฯ ทอดพระเนตร ภาพยนตร์

เมื่อครั้งเสด็จฯ ทอดพระเนตร ภาพยนตร์
Psycho
Spartacus
Lawrence Of Arabia
Later this year, the Scala cinema in Bangkok will screen seven classic films to celebrate King Rama IX's seventy-year reign, in a season titled เมื่อครั้งเสด็จฯ ทอดพระเนตร ภาพยนตร์. The selected films were all apparently seen by the King when they were originally released in the 1950s and 1960s.

The season includes Alfred Hitchcock's masterpiece Psycho (showing on 9th October), and two historical epics: Stanley Kubrick's Spartacus (4th December) and David Lean's Lawrence Of Arabia (5th December). The Scala, the last of Bangkok's movie palaces, is the ideal venue for this series of vintage classics. The concept is similar to the excellent Festival Of Classic Movies at Lido in 2007.

30 June 2016

Expressionism & Film

Expressionism & Film
Rudolf Kurtz wrote Expressionismus & Film in 1926, and it was published in German. It was written at the height of Expressionism's influence, long before other studies of Weimar cinema such as From Caligari To Hitler (Siegfried Kracauer).

After ninety years, this seminal text is now available in English as Expressionism & Film. The new edition, translated by Brenda Benthien, also includes a long essay on the book's impact by editors Christian Kiening and Ulrich Johannes Beil (which first appeared in a 2007 German reprint).

Oriental Rugs

Oriental Rugs
Oriental Rugs: An Illustrated Lexicon Of Motifs, Materials, & Origins is an expanded second edition of The Oriental Rug Lexicon, by Peter F Stone. It was intended as "a single source for commonly accepted definitions of oriental rug terms" and it's certainly an authoritative dictionary of oriental rugs.

The book covers not only Persian and oriental rugs, but also Indian, European, and Native American examples, making it a comprehensive reference. It also has an extensive bibliography. Around 1,000 colour images are included, though the rugs they illustrate are not dated, and some of the photographs are printed at quite a low resolution.

Oriental Rugs & Carpets: A Comprehensive Study, by Arthur Urbane Dilley, was one of the first histories of oriental rugs in English. Oriental Rugs: A Comprehensive Guide, by Murray L Eiland, is an excellent modern history of the subject. (The second edition of Eiland's book has additional coverage of Indian rugs, and better illustrations; Stone consulted Eiland during the writing of The Oriental Rug Lexicon.)

A History of Textile Art (by Agnes Geijer, illustrated in black and white) and 5,000 Years Of Textiles (a definitive study, edited by Jennifer Harris) are general surveys of textiles and weaving. The Encyclopedia Of Antique Carpets (by Abraham Levi Moheban), published in two volumes, is a comprehensive guide to all areas of carpet production.

28 June 2016

St. Kitts Music Festival

50 Cent was arrested after appearing at the St. Kitts Music Festival on Saturday night. Performances containing profanity are illegal in St. Kitts, though 50 Cent sang P.I.M.P., which includes lyrics such as "I'm a motherfuckin' P.I.M.P."

The concert was held at Warner Park in the St. Kitts capital, Basseterre. 50 Cent was briefly held in custody, and left the country on Sunday after paying a fine.

24 June 2016

Map

Map
Theatrum Orbis Terrarum
Map: Exploring The World, edited by Rosie Pickles and Tim Cooke, features 300 maps from the past 3,000 years, including works by acclaimed cartographers such as Abraham Ortelius, Gerard Mercator, Andreas Cellarius, and Joan Blaeu. The maps are "organized in complementary or contrasting pairs," with 200-word descriptions, and a detailed chronology provides historical context.

The book includes not only realistic cartographic maps, but also illustrated examples, such as an 1877 map depicting Russia as a giant octopus, its tentacles reaching out into Europe (Serio-Comic War Map, by Frederick W Rose; based on an 1870 design by JJ van Brederode). James Gillray's personification of England as George III excreting onto France (A New Map Of England & France, 1793) is equally satirical. Maps by artists are also included, as are infographics such as Joseph Minard's representation of Napoleon's Russian campaign (1861).

Map follows the same format as The Fashion Book, The Art Book, The Photography Book, The Pot Book, and The 20th Century Art Book, also published by Phaidon. It includes useful biographies of key cartographers, though the bibliography is limited to very recent publications.

The Story Of Maps, by Lloyd A Brown, was the first guide to cartographic history. Leo Bagrow's History Of Cartography (revised by RA Skelton) is the most comprehensive single-volume history of the subject. The History Of Cartography, a multi-volume work edited by David Woodward, is the definitive global survey of cartography.

23 June 2016

Logo Modernism

Logo Modernism
Logo Modernism, published in folio format by Taschen, features 6,000 logos designed between 1940 and 1980. The logos are reproduced in black and white, and classified into three categories: "Geometric", "Effect", and "Typographic". Julius Wiedemann edited Information Graphics and Understanding The World in addition to Logo Modernism.

The book begins with an introduction by Jens Muller giving a brief account of the evolution of logo design, illustrated with historical examples. A 300-page logo directory is followed by profiles of seven key graphic designers, including Yusaku Kamekura, whose book Trademarks Of The World (1956) is described as "a standard work for the period." There's also an extensive bibliography.

Marks Of Excellence (by Per Mollerup) remains the most comprehensive guide to logos and trademarks. The two leading histories of graphic design both include chapters on logos: "Corporate Identity and Visual Systems" in A History Of Graphic Design (by Philip B Meggs and Alston W Purvis), and "Corporate Identity in Germany and America" in Graphic Design (by Stephen J Eskilson).

18 June 2016

Scarves

Scarves
Scarves, by Nicky Albrechtsen and Fola Solanke, is a comprehensive guide to scarf designs of the twentieth century. More than 250 scarves are included, all photographed in colour, followed by biographies of fifty key scarf designers. The book itself is lavishly produced, with a padded satin cover.

Albrechtsen also wrote The Printed Square, about handkerchief designs, though Scarves is superior in many ways. Whereas The Printed Square (also published by Thames & Hudson) is a compact book, with examples from only four decades, the large-format Scarves covers the entire twentieth century. Unlike The Printed Square, each illustration in Scarves is dated and attributed, and each chapter begins with an introduction.

"Scarves are works of art in their own right," as the book clearly demonstrates. It features scarves from Europe, America, Asia, and Australia, in a wide variety of styles including abstract, geometric, figurative, and commemorative. The scarves are beautifully reproduced as vibrant, full-page illustrations.

Like handkerchiefs, scarves are a largely overlooked example of fashion accessories and printed textiles. The Scarf (1989), by Andrew Baseman, is the only previous guide to scarf designs. The early histories of scarves and handkerchiefs are summarised in Accessories Of Dress (1940), by Katherine Morris Lester and Bess Viola Oerke.

17 June 2016

National Enquirer

In recent months, the National Enquirer has broken several UK injunctions: PJS, NEJ, and RA. Now, it has broken four more, by naming three football players and a manager who were granted injunctions to prevent details of extra-marital affairs being published.

The four men were named on the Enquirer's website on 1st June, though the site is geo-blocked outside the United States. One of the footballers was named in the magazine's issue dated 13th June: "The ENQUIRER this week names more celebs and sports stars who've desperately tried to hide their sordid secrets using the British courts! One of America's top soccer players, Robbie Keane, is among them!"

All four are named in the issue dated 20th June: "Three players - Robbie Keane, star of the LA Galaxy, Gareth Barry and English goalkeeper Joe Hart - were named by The ENQUIRER. Married English soccer boss Alan Pardew got a court to hide his sleaze".

Some of these injunctions are almost a decade old, and UK football is not a particularly popular sport in America. It seems either that the Enquirer is scraping the bottom of the barrel in its search for exclusives, or that it is breaking the injunctions so that UK tabloids (especially The Sun) can use the American media coverage to justify lifting the reporting restrictions in the UK.

14 June 2016

The Printed Square

The Printed Square
The Printed Square: Vintage Handkerchief Patterns For Fashion & Design, by Nicky Albrechtsen features more than 200 reproductions of handkerchiefs from the 1920s to the 1950s: "The early twentieth century was a particularly innovative and inspiring period of design, stimulated by the popularity of the printed handkerchief as an essential accessory."

The book (which is square, to match its title and subject) begins with a brief social history of handkerchiefs and their designs. The selected handkerchiefs are floral and geometric, arranged according to their colour schemes. Full-page colour photographs make this a useful design sourcebook, though it's not a work of reference because it has no details about the dates, designers, or manufacturers of the handkerchiefs.

Albrechtsen is a co-author of Scarves (also published by Thames & Hudson), which covers another largely overlooked aspect of fashion accessories and printed textiles. The early histories of handkerchiefs and scarves are also summarised in Accessories Of Dress (1940) by Katherine Morris Lester and Bess Viola Oerke.

11 June 2016

The Art Of The Pastel

The Art Of The Pastel
Leonardo da Vinci
Maurice Quentin de La Tour
Jean-Etienne Liotard
The Art Of The Pastel, by Thea Burns and Philippe Saunier, is "the only comprehensive history of this most appealing medium." It was originally published in French as L'Art Du Pastel, edited by Emmanuelle Gaillard; the English edition was edited by Nicole Lanctot.

The book begins with Renaissance drawings in chalk, including Leonardo's portrait of Isabella d'Este, "the only extant drawing incorporating red, black, and yellow chalks traditionally attributed to him". In the seventeenth century, pastel emerged as an art form in its own right, though it "oscillated conceptually between drawing and painting".

Pastel's heyday came in eighteenth-century France: "The eighteenth century is rightly regarded as pastel's golden age, and the French artist Maurice Quentin de La Tour in particular is considered one of the most talented pastel masters of all time." La Tour dominated French portraiture of the period, though Jean-Etienne Liotard's works in pastel are equally outstanding. Liotard is also interesting for his Turkish affectations: he wore a full beard and styled himself as "le Peintre Turc".

The authors also discuss pastel's revival in the nineteenth century, and its use by Impressionists and Symbolists. This is a stunning book, with over 300 lavishly reproduced colour illustrations, many of which are full-page. The definitive history of pastel as an artistic medium, it also has an extensive bibliography.

10 June 2016

Brick

Brick
Brick, edited by William Hall, is a survey of over 150 brick buildings, from a 4,000-year-old ziggurat in Iraq to a twenty-first century structure built by a robotic arm. Published by Phaidon, it follows exactly the same format as Hall's earlier Concrete: full-page photographs with extended captions, arranged in themed chapters.

In his introduction, Hall notes that "no illustrated books have been published on the subject for over a decade." The last history of brick architecture - James WP Campbell's comprehensive Brick: A World History - was indeed written around ten years earlier (in 2003). The first international survey of brick buildings - Brickwork: Architecture & Design, by Andrew Plumridge and Wim Meulenkamp - was released a decade before that (in 1993).

09 June 2016

Stanley Kubrick & Me

Stanley Kubrick & Me
Stanley Kubrick & Me, the autobiography of Kubrick's personal assistant, Emilio D'Alessandro, was published in Italian in 2012. An English translation, Stanley Kubrick & Me: Thirty Years At His Side, was released last month. The memoir was written by Filippo Ulivieri, and translated by Simon Marsh.

D'Alessandro, an Italian driver living in London, first met Kubrick in 1971, and eventually became his most trusted assistant: "I'd been hired as a driver, but in fifteen years I'd become an electrician, plumber, vet, gardener, carpenter, and builder. Every day there was something new. I spent less and less of my life away from Stanley."

As Ian Watson wrote in his essay Plumbing Stanley Kubrick (2000), D'Alessandro was a central figure in Kubrick's life: "Emilio became much more than merely a driver. Short, dark, and wiry, he had kept practical matters ticking over at the manor house for many years, playing a major role in trying to steer catastrophes back into mere mishaps."

Kubrick's production operation "consisted of dozens and dozens of cogs: some small, some large, but all of them important. Each one was a necessary working part of the engine that was Stanley Kubrick." D'Alessandro was one of the largest cogs in that machine, and his relationship with Kubrick was closer and longer than that of any other staff member (and arguably closer than anyone outside Kubrick's family).

D'Alessandro was Kubrick's driver and personal assistant for almost thirty years. (D'Alessandro was a former racing driver, though Kubrick's driving was somewhat less accomplished: "Whenever he drove me somewhere, I felt I was staring death in the face.") He dealt with Kubrick's personal possessions, his correspondence, and, above all, his beloved pets: "Stanley's love for animals was limitless, bordering on the preposterous, and was extended unconditionally to all living creatures."

Ulivieri writes in his afterword: "If you asked, and I did want to ask, any random day spent with Kubrick would have been enough to fill a hundred pages." His book contains new Kubrick anecdotes on every page, and it reveals more of Kubrick's character than any previous book on the director.

D'Alessandro was the last person to see Kubrick before he died, during the post-production of Eyes Wide Shut: "He had reached the absolute limit of physical and mental exhaustion". The book's final chapters deal with Kubrick's funeral and D'Alessandro's return to Italy. (D'Alessandro was interviewed at his home in Cassino for S Is For Stanley, a feature-length documentary inspired by Stanley & Me.)

D'Alessandro and Ulivieri allow us, for the first time, to see the real Kubrick: "In the collective imagination, Stanley Kubrick was a kind of ogre. A misanthrope, who lived alone in his castle, isolated from the world. Stanley was quite the opposite: he was an altruistic man, capable of generosity without the need for recognition, an artist who valued his privacy because it allowed him to devote himself to what he cared about most of all: his family, his animals, and the cinema."

The Italian edition has a more comprehensive index, though in other respects the English version is superior. It has more colour illustrations and longer captions than the Italian edition, and the photographs have been enhanced. (Kubrick completists will want to have both editions, as they each include a different selection of location photographs taken by Kubrick at Mentmore Towers. An Italian digital edition, Stanley Kubrick & Me: 30 Anni Al Suo Fianco, includes even more photographs.)

Reading between the lines, D'Alessandro seems somewhat estranged from Kubrick's estate. "Out of respect for Stanley," he declined to attend the European premiere of Eyes Wide Shut. He was not interviewed for the official documentary A Life In Pictures (Jan Harlan, 2001). His appearance in the documentary The Last Movie (Paul Joyce, 1999) was cut out when it was released on DVD. Anthony Frewin and Leon Vitali (two former employees) have become de facto spokesmen for Kubrick's estate, though D'Alessandro's book contains no mention of Frewin and only a passing reference to "an actor named Leon Vitali".

Although there are plenty of books on Kubrick's films, and a couple of unauthorised biographies, there are very few memoirs of Kubrick by those who knew him well. Frederic Raphael's Eyes Wide Open is incredibly self-serving. ("S.K.: Caesar's Gallic Wars... Have you read it? F.R.: Stanley, I read it in Latin when I was nine years old.") Michael Herr's Kubrick is a concise and affectionate tribute. ("I reminded him that he hadn't turned the computers off. "They like to be left on," he said ironically, factually, tenderly.") But Stanley Kubrick & Me is the most intimate and moving portrait of the world's greatest director.

Ends Of The Earth

Ends Of The Earth
Spiral Jetty
Double Negative
Ends Of The Earth: Land Art To 1974 was "the first large-scale museum exhibition of Land Art" and "the most comprehensive survey of Land Art to date." The exhibition, curated by Philipp Kaiser and Miwon Kwon, was held in San Francisco in 2012, and its catalogue was edited by Michelle Piranio.

The catalogue includes essays by Virginia Dwan and Willoughby Chase, who organised the first Land Art exhibitions: Earthworks (1968) and Earth Art (1969), respectively. It also features an interview with Germano Celant, author of Art Povera (1969). A detailed chronology covers Land Art from 1933 to 1974, followed by an extensive bibliography. Illustrations include sketches, notes, and magazine articles, in addition to photographs of Land Art.

Robert Smithson's Spiral Jetty (1970) is perhaps the most famous example of Land Art, and Smithson is one of the movement's pioneers: "Walter De Maria, Michael Heizer, Charles Ross, Robert Smithson: These are the high priests of Land Art". De Maria and Heizer "chose not to participate" in the exhibition, though photographs of their work - including "arguably the most iconic piece of Land Art," Heizner's Double Negative (1969) - are featured in the catalogue.

Jeffrey Kastner's Land & Environmental Art (1998) is an equally comprehensive study of Land Art. It includes reprints of seminal essays such as Notes Toward An Understanding Of Earth Art (Willoughby Sharp, 1969), A Sediment Of The Mind: Earth Projects (Robert Smithson, 1968), and The Spiral Jetty (Robert Smithson, 1970).

08 June 2016

Mid-Century Modern Complete

Mid-Century Modern Complete
Mid-Century Modern Complete, by Dominic Bradbury, is a survey of design in the post-war era. The book, published by Thames & Hudson, follows the same format as Alastair Duncan's Art Deco Complete: profiles of the major designers in each medium (including Charles and Ray Eames, Dieter Rams, and Alec Issigonis), and an alphabetical guide to other designers and manufacturers.

The book includes concise essays on mid-century glassware (Glass Design, by Joy McCall), ceramics (Mid-Century Ceramics, by Alun Graves), textiles (Artist-Designed Textiles, by Sue Pritchard), industrial design (From Computers To Corporate Identity, by Jana Scholze) and, especially, graphics (Mid-Century Confluences, by Steven Heller). There are also more than 1,000 colour illustrations, including many full-page plates.

The Mid-Century Modern style was first described by Cara Greenberg in Mid-Century Modern: Furniture Of The 1950s (1984; not listed in Bradbury's bibliography). Greenberg's book focused on furniture and interior design from 1947 to 1957, though Bradbury covers furniture, interiors, lighting, glass, ceramics, textiles, products, and graphics from the mid 1940s to the late 1960s.

As Bradbury writes in his introduction, the period he surveys "was an age of ages - the atomic age, the space age, the jet age, the computer age". Inevitably, this is beyond the scope of a single book, even one with more than 500 pages, and some areas receive more attention than others. There are profiles of individual designers, though no general overviews of trends in furniture or interior design. While American and European designers are well represented, Japanese design (such as Sony's transistor radios and televisions) is largely excluded.

The post-war period, especially in America, was an era of consumerism, with the rise of branding, fast food, and international popular culture. Bradbury describes it as "a sustained era of golden growth that spurred demand for a whole new spectrum of goods, products and services, which the world of design was happy to provide."

Post-1945 design has also been covered by other books, including Modern Furniture Classics (Charlotte and Peter Fiell, 1991), Cold War Modern (David Crowley and Jane Pavitt, 2010), and The Art Of Things (Dominique Forest, 2014). The forthcoming third volume of Victor Margolin's World History Of Design will also cover post-war design.

07 June 2016

The Irish News

The Irish News
The head of the Police Service of Northern Ireland unsuccessfully attempted to prevent The Irish News from printing the name of a man suspected of involvement in the 1976 massacre at Kingsmill. Last Friday, the newspaper's website named the suspect as Colm Murphy, and revealed that his palm print had been found on the killers' getaway vehicle.

An inquest into the Kingsmill massacre has been opened, and the PSNI contacted the newspaper on Friday night, threatening it with a High Court injunction to prevent it from naming Murphy in the next day's print edition. There was an emergency session at the High Court after midnight on Saturday morning, though the case was adjourned.

By that time, the Saturday edition was already being printed, and the newspaper refused to stop the presses and remove Murphy's name. The front page featured a large photograph of Murphy, and he was named in a subheading ("Colm Murphy claims he is being set up to 'protect' Sinn Fein").

04 June 2016

National Enquirer

National Enquirer
The National Enquirer has broken two celebrity injunctions in the past few weeks: those granted to PJS (partner of YMA) and NEJ. The American supermarket tabloid has now breached a third injunction, by naming RA, who had obtained a High Court injunction to prevent the media reporting that he is being sued for sexual harassment by his hairdresser.

According to the Enquirer's issue dated 6th June, RA is YMA: Elton John obtained a second injunction after his hairdresser filed charges against him. The two-page article boasts that "The ENQUIRER takes the bold step of naming Elton's hairdresser" (John Fallows). It does not describe the alleged "sexual misconduct" in any detail, though the headline is clear enough: "HE TRIED TO GROPE ME!" (Similar charges brought by the singer's bodyguard have already been widely reported.)

The Enquirer also has its sights set on yet another injunction. In its issue dated 30th May, it described "sickening naked photos" of Ned Rocknroll, husband of Kate Winslet: "The Enquirer can reveal the shocking truth about the photos the celebrity twosome desperately fought to hide". The magazine does not have access to the images, and its article relies on unverified descriptions of them. (The photographs were injuncted in 2013, after The Sun newspaper attempted to publish them.)

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